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English
Views: 0 Author: Site Editor Publish Time: 2019-06-27 Origin: Site
Arbutin, commonly known as arbutin and arbutin, is the mono-glucose form of hydroquinone, which exists in the leaves of pears of the Rosaceae family and the leaves of bearberry plants of the rhododendron family. Arbutin can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and is an active ingredient with better biological activity in plants, so it has also become one of the main raw materials in major whitening cosmetics at home and abroad. According to the different directions of the glycosidic bond in space, arbutin can be divided into β-arbutin and α-arbutin. The molecular formula of the two is exactly the same, the spatial structure is different, and the direction of the glycosidic bond is just opposite.
At present, β-plant high extraction and preparation methods include plant extracts, active cell extracts and preparation methods, extracts and the like. 90% of our sales are bear market bear fruit, 90% of our company sells, and the price of Tianlu natural beta also extracted from simple red bean 9888 is 10 times that of artificial synthesis, 600 yuan/kg, which is now twice as high 0%. There is no pollution in the production process, and the product is successfully developed, but because of the high technical requirements, there is currently no world.
The safe method of α-Burberry is produced through effective methods, and its stability, effectiveness and effect are all the best in the world of β-Burberry, which is whitening and sweet. Protest the widespread use of brands.
1) Difference in stability: α-arbutin will not decompose at a high temperature of 100°; β-arbutin will decompose in a small amount over 60°. Under the condition of pH = 5.2-- 8.0, the α-arbutin solution was not decomposed, but beta-arbutin was decomposed. So overall stability, alpha is better than beta.
2) The physical and chemical properties of α-arbutin and β-arbutin are basically similar. They are epimers of each other, but their optical rotations are very different. The value of α-arbutin is positive (+174.0～ +184.0°), while β-arbutin is negative (-64°～-68°), which is also the biggest difference and judgment method between the two.
3) The price of α-arbutin is 3 times higher than that of β-arbutin, but the whitening effect is 10 times higher than that of β-arbutin.
4) β-Arbutin exists in nature, but α-Arbutin does not exist.
For the two epimers of arbutin, namely α and β forms, the whitening effect and safety are different. It is reported that α-arbutin has a stronger inhibitory effect on melanin than β-arbutin. 10 times stronger than other known whitening active ingredients in cosmetics. β-Arbutin damages the cell membrane of cultured cells, so the dosage of β-Arbutin is closely related to its safety. At present, when β-arbutin is used as an additive in cosmetics and the dosage is about 3%, when the dosage is less than this dosage, the catalytic activity of inhibiting tyrosinase in the skin is weak, and the skin whitening effect is not obvious. It obviously inhibits the activity of tyrosinase and produces cytotoxicity to the body cells. In comparison, α-arbutin does not affect the growth of cells at higher concentrations, so the efficacy and safety of whitening are higher than that of β-arbutin.
Precautions:
1. Both β-arbutin and α-arbutin can only be used externally, not orally.
2. Arbutin cannot be used in formula with methylparaben, as it is easy to produce hydroquinone, a harmful substance that irritates the skin.
3. When formulating skin care products, an appropriate amount of antioxidants can be added to prevent discoloration.
4. Arbutin is not easy to decompose in the reaction temperature range of 30~50℃.
5. The pH value of arbutin should be controlled at 5-7, and its stability should be controlled within the adaptation range of human skin. Alkaline will change color, acid will break down a little.
6. In order to speed up the absorption of arbutin, 0.8%~1% penetrant azone can be added.
The "Announcement on the Catalogue of the Names of Cosmetic Raw Materials Used" issued by China Food and Drug Administration in 2014, CTFA and the 2010 edition of the "Catalogue of English Names of International Cosmetic Raw Materials Standards" issued by CTFA and China Fragrance Association all listed β-arbutin and α-bear As a cosmetic raw material, there is no report of its unsafe external use.
Arbutin can prevent the production of melanin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase in the body (tyrosinase is the key enzyme in melanin synthesis), thereby reducing skin pigmentation, removing pigmentation and freckles, as well as bactericidal and anti-inflammatory properties. effect.
Arbutin can decompose under acidic conditions to produce hydroquinone. Hydroquinone has certain carcinogenicity and cytotoxicity. Arbutin can be added to cosmetics but hydroquinone cannot be added. There is also a risk of hydroquinone production with added arbutin.
Although arbutin has shown a good whitening and freckle-removing effect, its toxicity should not be ignored. After arbutin is absorbed by the human body, it will be easily hydrolyzed under acidic conditions into hydroquinone, which is harmful to the human body.
Studies have shown that about 75% of ursolic acid can be excreted within 24 hours after being taken by the human body, and the content of quinone in urine increases significantly, exposing cells to high concentrations of arbutin solution, Arbutin can be found to be toxic to cells.
In addition, the hydroquinone contained in the metabolites of arbutin may cause allergic symptoms such as skin peeling, itching, and even permanent skin damage in severe cases; long-term use may affect the human immune system, liver and kidney functions .
Summary: In fact, the main effect of arbutin is to brighten the skin, making the skin look youthful and beautiful. At present, with the expiration of more and more patents for use, arbutin, which was only used in high-end cosmetics in the past, is becoming more and more popular.
